In this case, there were leftover French lentils and quinoa in the fridge–so into the bowl they went with some jarred roasted red peppers, a pear from the season’s end, and a handful of raisins.

Next a quick troll through the garden for a clutch of kale and cabbage leaves and a stalk of immature green garlic that I treated like a scallion. Flip the high heat on under a puddle of water in the cast iron wok. Choppity chop and into the wok. In half a minute the works has wilted nicely, so off goes the heat and into the bowl go the veggies.

Then some olive oil in the work and a bunch of local hazelnuts. Stir-stir while they toast a little, and over the salad they go, oil in tow.

Red wine vinegar, coarse salt, a crack of fresh pepper, and a scatter of red chile flakes.

This baby was done, and boy was it a lip smacker. “Beans and rice” never tasted so fine–just like my new hero Dave Ramsey knows.

Sing it Dave!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

BEANS AND RICE (RICE AND BEANS)
Copyright Scott Dawson Songs 2008

Fannie Mae, GMAC and MasterCard
Had control of me
I was sinking, sinking in a river of debt
When a friend
Shared with me
A radio personality
With a message
That I wouldn’t soon forget

Act your wage, budget the till
Name every dollar bill
Sell the Rolex, the speedboat and SUV’s
The only time you shall haunt
Your neighborhood restaurant
Will be working
As a server for Applebee’s

So I’m squeezing every dime
No fish, no beef, no pork
Now when dinnertime rolls around
I don’t even need a fork

Rice and beans
Beans and rice
Keeps me fed for a modest price
I’m adjusting
To living on beans and rice I got pintos, kidneys, limas too
With a can of spam I got
Poor man’s stew
Thanks Dave Ramsey
For teaching me beans and rice

Rice and beans
Beans and rice
Cayenne pepper and a onion slice
Mighty tasty
I’m cooking up beans and rice

I got long grain, short grain
Wild and brown
This recipe is spreading all over town
I’m making progress
By living on beans and rice Someday soon
You’ll hear me
On the air screaming “I’m debt free”
But until then
I’m living on beans and rice

As you can see, when fava beans are fresh picked young and tender, they are beautifully ready to go straight from the pods. No second peeling needed at all. I discovered this simply by working with fava beans from my own garden, and then was gratified to see Italian and Spanish cooks echoing my experience in their books.

With the double peel debate settled, then what to do with fava beans? First is to think of them like a fresh bean. Once you do that you can rock and roll just like I do in Hippie Kitchen. The official recipe is called Fava Bean Sass, a dish made by flash cooking the favas then tossing them with spicy peanut sauce that includes diced apple and shredded carrot to sweeten things. So simple. So delicious. So thrifty–especially if you planted favas in February and are now about ready to harvest them.

The main thing that makes a measure free hippie kitchen work, though, is getting on a roll with things. So once I’ve got a new vegetable or recipe idea in tow, I play-play. If you try this I think you’ll find that eating with the seasons–as in fava beans for days on end while they are the happening thing–does not get boring.

The second round with favas I suggest on page 54 of Hippie Kitchen is incorporating them into a grain salad with leftover millet, radishes, and raisins. A little dressing and you have a balanced spring primavera in one bowl.

Fun, you say, but there’s more favas coming through the door daily. No problem, flash cook them as always with spring onions and green garlic. Spoon the works into warm corn tortillas and top with blue cheese. Then name this Fava Bean Heaven.

———-I hope I’ve piqued your interest in these early summer beans. They are great since along with the peas they are among the first food to grace our gardens and appear in the markets. And if you aren’t growing them just yet and do have to buy favas that need double peeling, don’t give up. Once they are flash cooked, they pop right out of their casings whether the cook does it all ahead or people do it themselves–together at the table while they slow down to relish the harvest whether it’s in a hash, warm salad, or pizza pie.

These little stovetop cornbreads are quick, warm, crowd pleasers. On tours I make them round, stuffed with cheese or refried beans drawing on gorditas and empanadas as my guide.

In April 2010, though, Justine, a Facebook pal from Southern California, shipped a box of avocadoes from her tree, and inspired these corn crescents.

Details

~Use the usual ratio of one teaspoon leavening to a cup of cornmeal/flour. On the cornmeal/flour ratio, it’s generally three to four parts meal for each part flour. One to two tablespoons of butter for each cup of masa/flour softens the dough nicely.

~Taking time to knead your dough some makes for cakes that puff some when fried.

Laurel Robertson, who wrote Laurel’s Kitchen with Carol Flinders, is some kind of woman. This salad is adapted from their pages where they titled it “Astonishing.” I’ve made it many times over the years, and it’s my privilege to translate it into a measure free format.

What I especially like about this vegetarian and vegan approach to a spinach salad is that it springs from the more traditional approach which relies on hot bacon fat to wilt the greens. So smart of Laurel and Carol to figure out a different approach to a warm dressing—a dressing that not only succeeds in taming your fresh garden spinach but also one that is pretty darn sexy with its polite pour of dry white wine.

Flash cooking is the heart of my kitchen scene. It nets me plenty of fresh seasonal vegetables in short order–warm salad style. I’ve talked about it many times here on the blog, but people resonate with the idea so, that we did a video. It’s a 6 minute clip from chopping the onion to chowing down. There’s also a section devoted to it in Hippie Kitchen: 43-45. Think stir fry without the oil, Asian vegetables, or Asian flavors.

• The papery star of leaves capping the red fruit might be green, but the California strawberry industry has a way to go. At issue is the ozone-depleting biocide, methyl bromide, that berry growers sterilize coastal soils with prior to setting out young plants. The highly toxic gas is listed for worldwide ban in 2005 under the Montreal Protocol, an international agreement aimed at reducing dependency on ozone-depleting chemicals.

• Senior scientist at Pesticide Action Network North America, Susan Kegley, Ph.D., thinks moves toward organic farming are on target. “One of the things we’re trying to facilitate is for people from the EPA and USDA to talk with sustainable ag people who are farming without fumigants so that we can get research money for viable alternatives that don’t require toxic substances,” Kegley said. “Our government subsidizes so many things. If we’re going to put billions into energy bills, why not help our farmers transition away from chemicals and have subsidies go to those who reduce their use of fumigants.”

Nasty upon nasty methyl bromide is finally being phased out. But, as Kristen Ridley wrote on the Sustainable Food blog March 31, 2010:

“This would be good, except the fumigant that chemical manufacturer Arysta would like to replace it with is methyl iodide. Methyl iodide is used by scientists for the delightful purpose of intentionally inducing cancer in lab animals. Cancer is not just this chemical’s side effect; it’s its job. Astonishingly, the EPA under Bush approved this chemical for use, although California, where the majority of U.S. strawberries are grown, held off on approving the stuff. California is the second largest user of methyl bromide in the country, so now that it’s getting the boot, the pressure is on for the California Department of Pesticide Regulation to approve methyl iodide, known commercially as “Midas,” in its place.”

If you’re intrigued and more of the history, here’s my full 2005 E Mag piece:

“Strawberry fields…Are We Doomed to Use Methyl Bromide…Forever” 

The papery star of leaves capping the red fruit might be green, but the California strawberry industry has a way to go. At issue is the ozone-depleting biocide, methyl bromide, that berry growers sterilize coastal soils with prior to setting out young plants. The highly toxic gas is listed for worldwide ban in 2005 under the Montreal Protocol, an international agreement aimed at reducing dependency on ozone-depleting chemicals.

Yet, after a decade of success in rolling back global levels of consumption, the California strawberry industry that uses 40 percent of the nation’s production convinced the Bush administration to back pedal. While in 2003, U.S. consumption of the gas was down to 7446 tons, the Environmental Protection Agency received ‘critical use exemptions’ from parties to the Montreal Protocol to raise the bar to 10,472 tons for 2005.

“The phase-out was actually working quite well and along comes 2005, and the US asked for an exemption to both continue production and allow use at 39% of the 1991 levels upon which the cutbacks over the past 10 years have been based,” said David Doniger, senior attorney and director of climate center policy at the Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC). “But the EPA’s own data showed a total usage of only 31 percent of the baseline in 2003. So we’ve sued the agency on the basis that the exemptions for 2005 don’t conform to the Clean Air Act and Montreal Protocol requirements.”

Doniger underscores problems with the EPA’s calculations. “We’re saying that there’s so much puffing that’s gone into figures that things aren’t adding up. Also in our suit is that the EPA has allowed the big bromide companies to keep producing even though we found that the United States already has at least 10 tons of the chemical stockpiled which is more than the alleged need.”

“Methyl bromide is one of the major chemicals still allowed that degrade the ozone,” said Ray Chavira, scientist in the EPA’s San Francisco pesticide office. “Byy the end of summer the re-registration process listing about 6 alternatives, though, should be complete. Then the EPA will focus on getting commodity groups to transition over to those chemicals, a process that will probably take 1 to 3 years. So what we’re trying to do is pace ourselves in moving away from methyl bromide.”

Rodger Wasson, president of the California Strawberry Commission said, “We in the strawberry industry have been in full cooperation on the Montreal Protocol process and our growers have funded research to find alternatives. I’m not sure who if anyone has done more to find alternatives to methyl bromide. But it’s difficult, complicated, and expensive experimenting with these other chemicals and conducting field trials. You can have farmers right next door to each other have different outcomes, so you have to feel your way along. It’s both a science and an art—not a slam dunk.”

Another point that underlies the debate is competition in the global market. While parties to the Montreal Protocol established on a 2005 ban for developed nations, they agreed that 2015 was appropriate for developing countries. In a congressional report, Wayne Morrisey wrote that “of particular concern were consumption allowances for developing countries some of which compete directly with U.S. produce markets.” A Sacramento Bee editorial that pointed to Mexico as an emerging competitor echoed that the lack of a level playing field amounts to “the equivalent of unilateral disarmament for the California strawberry farmer.”

Although the USDA spent over $172 million from 1993 to 2004 researching alternatives to methyl bromide, the agency says it needs more time to come up fumigants that are as effective. “We have reduced the use of methyl bromide in this country by 65 percent from 1991 levels and I think that’s quite notable,” said Vicks. “Telone is one of the more promising alternatives, but a known carcinogen and under severe restrictions, so short of quitting growing strawberries, we may not get to a complete phase out for some time.”

That said, Wasson estimates that farmers grew 30 percent of the 2003 berry crop without relying on methyl bromide and that once the data from 2004 is compiled the figure should reach 40 percent. In addition to other toxic chemicals and new application techniques switches to organic growing are responsible for declining dependency.

Senior scientist at Pesticide Action Network North America, Susan Kegley, Ph.D., thinks moves toward organic farming are on target. “One of the things we’re trying to facilitate is for people from the EPA and USDA to talk with sustainable ag people who are farming without fumigants so that we can get research money for viable alternatives that don’t require toxic substances,” Kegley said. “Our government subsidizes so many things. If we’re going to put billions into energy bills, why not help our farmers transition away from chemicals and have subsidies go to those who reduce their use of fumigants.”

Owner of Pacific Gold, Larry Eddings, who leases 1000 acres for farming berries and currently has a tenth of that in organic production says it’s not that easy. “The truth in the berry business is that on the conventional side, we’re making very little money. It struck me 8 years ago that there was a lot of talk in the organic world, so I’ve been turning some of my production that way. It’s turned out pretty well and I like it a lot. We grow lovely berries, not gnarly little things with worm holes it them like I thought organics were before we got into this.”

“Still, in my opinion, methyl bromide is a whipping boy,” Eddings added. “The amount from commercial agriculture that goes into the atmosphere is a very small percentage of the overall amounts, some of which come from natural sources. Also there’s very little science that says our practices are doing damage,” Eddings said. “Having said all that, I know I’m on the wrong side of the politically correct spectrum and methyl bromide will eventually go away. It’s going to be really hard on the strawberry industry, though.”

Sacramento Bee editorial agrees with Eddings, but underscores the need to move in a more earth-friendly direction. “Absent a technological breakthrough, strawberry farming without methyl bromide would mean higher costs for farms, which means higher costs for consumers….If every farmer in every country has to live by these rules, however, it ought to be a price consumers should be willing to live with. Earth can’t live without its ozone layer.”

One secret of this take on tabbouleh is making it the way they do in the Levant–where as my friend Rula Awaad-Rafferty observes, “it’s about the green, not the grain.”

The other secret is to go with what’s seasonal. No fresh tomatoes in spring, so a grand riot of greens held the day. Just ask Angela and Lenore who live next door. This salad is a hit for mommas and young’uns alike.

On Herbal Trips to the Spring Garden—

Even in the spring trips to the garden net different offerings from day to day. On this venture, who called out along with the parsley, mint, and thyme but some young onions, a couple small spinaches that wintered over, a few tarragon fronds, and a totally luscious hyacinth that went into a vase to keep the cook happy.

Also a variation on the theme in a video at the bottom of this post. “Tostadas: So Easy an Old Stoner Can Make Them”

Here’s a take on a taco salad that goes light years beyond iceberg and draws on the bounty of an early season garden. If you’re like me and want lotsa veggies, just pile the mount way high and grab your chopsticks or fork. Then once you graze off the main heap, you’ll have a nice warm bundle of food to pick up and eat.

On A Fresh Herbaceous Kind of Spring—

The thing with spring is that oftentimes there’s not much to eat in the garden. Lettuces are young yet and peas just beginning to grow. But no problem, the grand seasonal cycle seems to tell us, there’s plenty of herbs.

So, what better time of year to graze on fresh herbs. To turn them into your vegetables. Their pungent mystique powerful enough to gaily chase winter mugglies away.

So especially in spring, consider using herbs as vegetables. Perhaps not exclusively, but still in significant green proportions. They skinny up to lovely advantage things like cabbage in a Tostada Salad or Levantine-style with whole grains in what we call Red Quinoa Tabbouleh.

Why the combination of parsley, summer savory, thyme, mint, tarragon, and chives? That’s what was looking good in the garden when these two recipes came together. A lovely combo I thought, although one sure to change with the seasons.

So grab you basket and go gathering—keeping an eye out for the occasional flower. Once back in the kitchen, snip the chives into bits with your scissors. Strip the summer savory and thyme off the stems in one fell swoop of your pinched fingers. Give your parsley and mint as much chop as you have the patience for.

You’ll wind up with a fabulous heap of herbaceous green. A beautiful spring green that will hold its color as long as it doesn’t spend too long under the spell of much heat.

The fabulous aroma of thyme, mint, and parsley makes this approach to working with fresh herbs so worth it. They remain innocent until the leaves begin to bruise when you strip the thyme off their woody stems and chop the parsley and mint with your knife. A rather lovely treat for the cook. No need to go out and buy aroma therapy when you’ve got this kind of action going in your very own kitchen.

Cooking Beyond Measure, p. 72.
On Roasting Vegetables—

Vegetables roast marvelously well from low to high temperatures. On highs around 450 F, colors are preserved but you have to watch things like a hawk. Medium ovens of 350 work well too, and depending on what you’re roasting, munchies will be yours in a half hour. Then again if you’re going out for a walk you can turn the oven to 250. When you return, you’ll have the sweetest caramelized morsels a soul could ever ask for.

My preferred roasting vehicle is—or was—Jessie Branom’s extra large cast iron skillet. The iron and the sides of the pan cradle the vegetables in a cocoon of heat that caramelizes, and the veggies y turn out sweet and golden. Baking trays work too, but as you’ll discover if you use both vehicles like I usually do, the results cast iron produces are decidedly superior. Yet at this writing, a new over-sized cast iron skillet is on my shopping list. Here’s why.

Jessie Branom and my mother were close friends in Phoenix during the early 1960s where they raised their families. Jessie had two children; Mom had four. So the women reasoned that my mother should have the big frying pan Jessie owned, and Jessie should have my mother’s medium sized skillet. The swap was made, and much later after Mom passed away Jesse’s skillet came to me. I used it for years but as a historian who thinks in terms of centuries, I’m aware of how numbered our days are—and how things can get lost in the shuffle at the end of life.

So it was that Thanksgiving of 2007 when Jessie’s first granddaughter married, I posted the skillet swathed in wedding wrap. As I wrote to the young bride, Jenny Branom Patberg, “Great scratch cooks have used this skillet for a half century. May its journey go on.”

Postscript: I have by this time, 3 years after the above was written, purchased a new skillet which has definitely earned its keep and love as a new member of the kitchen family.

Historically, of course, my affair with blended things began with smoothies in the Sixties–the old faithful banana-yogurt-honey-wheat germ routine. Given such a sagacious history, it hasn’t been too much a leap to start riffing around on Cucumber Melon Soup.

I’ve got a recipe for Mango Mint Ice coming out in Hippie Kitchenand at the moment I’m playing with a Strawberry Mint Ice that most likely will make the pages of the third in the measurefree trilogy, Grow Your Own: From the Garden to the Table But Grow Your Own won’t be out until next year, and it’s strawberry season right now. So here’s the skinny.

That’s it except for the Spicy Watermelon Ices I’ll be sampling out for Fourth of July down at Whole Foods in The Pearl. I could spell out my approach to this number as well, but I’m thinking that if it gets hot and you’re in the mood, you’ll come up with something pretty cool on your ownsome. Yes?