Over easy and whisked into omelets, eggs delight many. But the hens that laid the eggs are another subject. Visit 95 percent of the egg operations in the United States today, and you’ll find as many as a quarter million hens crammed into batteries of cages stacked ten rows high—quarters so tight they cannot even flap their wings.

“The modern hen lays an egg on around 320 days each year, and during the two hours surrounding that process, she is severely frustrated,” Ian Duncan says, expert on laying hens and emeritus professor in the department of animal and poultry science at the University of Guelph, Canada, who holds a university chair in animal welfare. “That seems unacceptable to me.”

Duncan also notes that without perches, the chickens do not sleep well at night, and because they cannot get exercise, they develop weak bones akin to osteoporosis. That said at least with the growing minority of producers, “the trend seems to be getting the birds onto the floor of the barns and even outside,” Duncan observes.

“This new ethic is conservative, not radical,” says Bernard Rollin, PhD, faculty in the departments of philosophy, animal sciences, and biomedical sciences at Colorado State University. “It is a return to the roughly fair contract those who have husbanded animals for virtually all of human history have had with animals—that of taking great pains to put one’s animals into the best possible environment one could find to meet their physical and psychological natures.”

Rollin’s point is well taken. No less a mainstream organization than the Humane Society of the United States formally began a campaign to raise awareness about conditions related to confined farm animals in 2005. By the end of 2006, HSUS had drawn sufficient public attention to the wretched plight of laying hens to help change the egg-purchasing policies of several large companies including Ben and Jerry’s.

“We will be phasing over to the good eggs over the next four years,” says Sean Greenwood, spokesman for the ice cream company that markets itself as socially conscious. “We’re not chicken experts and learned about all this from the Humane Society. But we are a company that believes in being fair to animals.”

“We looked at major buyers and worked with them to stop buying the most abusive types of eggs that are available,” says Paul Shapiro, director of the Humane Society’s Factor Farm Campaign. “Ben and Jerry’s is a huge company, and they deserve credit for improving the welfare for hens who are laying eggs for their ice creams.”

But Shapiro cautions against assuming that all is well. “Consumers need to realize that cage free eggs don’t necessarily mean cruelty-free,” he adds. “That said hens free from the nightmare of battery cages are leading much better lives, so this is a serious improvement that ought to be applauded. There is significantly is less suffering involved.”

Hens living in cage free operations, as John Brunnquell, president of Egg Innovations notes, “are free to move around the barn, interact with peers, and enjoy natural sunlight,” but they do not get outside. That’s because we, the consumers, still have not indicated we will support full lives for the hens that give us our eggs.

“We want to expand significantly the number of people in this market so this is a way to produce affordable cage free eggs,” explains Brunnquell. “On the other hand, eggs that are labeled organic by definition must come from hens that are free roaming with access to the outside.”

“The organic shoppers have said they are willing to pay the price for the more expensive outside access, but the cage free shopper hasn’t. So we don’t want to lose those people by pricing product out of their range.”

Brunnquell grew up on a small family egg farm in Wisconsin that used cages, but after earning a masters degree in poultry science, he decided to move his operation to 100 percent cage free, complete with third party audits to ensure full compliance. “Back then, I could articulate all the arguments for cages, but at the end of the day when I walked into a poultry barn, I evolved a stronger feeling that cage free was a correct way to go.”

The third party audits Brunnquell uses from Humane Farm Animal Care are in lieu of formal federal or state regulation protecting animals in confined farming operations. According to Rollin, that’s because the agricultural industry has pressured for a laissez faire approach to regulation.

“These big companies are kingdoms unto themselves and aren’t used to the oversight that animal research enjoys in university settings,” Rollin says. “They account only to their stock holders, so many owners simply say they will just move to Asia if US regulators clamp down.”

The US bureaucracy might have lagged, but as Shapiro sees it consumers are coming around. “Since we started our campaign in 2005, we’ve praised a number of companies that now have switched over to cage free eggs: Ben and Jerry’s, AOL, Google, the Bon Appetit Management Company that services more than 70 universities, and, of course, natural food purveyors Wild Oats Natural Marketplace, and Whole Foods Market.”

To expand this net, Shapiro suggests people “use their power as consumers, ask grocery store managers to stop selling cage eggs all together, and talk with the directors of dinning halls at their companies, schools, and hospitals.”

Duncan agrees that consumers can change practices, but he thinks education is critical. “I think it’s got to be a labeling scheme with compulsory photographs showing quite clearly how the hens that produced the eggs are kept.”

Compulsory photographs on cartons of eggs? Consumers aware of how the animals who provide the product they purchase spend their lives? The concept might sound extreme, but surely the hens that are laying the eggs would flap their wings in approval—if only they could.

On Vinegared Milk, Buttermilk, Yogurt, and Beer—

You can buy buttermilk which is already sour and certainly genteel. But vinegar’s always on hand in my kitchen and making my own soured milk is cheaper. All it takes is a spoonful of vinegar to clabber a cup of milk—or if the truth be known I add the vinegar to the egg, milk, and oil, letting it do its thing right in the bowl.

There’s also yogurt which in addition to sour power has all those healthful organisms. Since it’s thicker than milk, add a little water if you go this route. Or you can skip milk products altogether and use beer like the Wild West’s grizzled prospectors did, either flat from the night before or splurging with a fresh bottle.

On a Roll with Corncakes—

I often add spaghetti squash and minced cilantro to corncakes, skipping the cheese altogether as pictured on p. 53.

Another twist is departing from the cornmeal and using leftover quinoa. An egg beaten into a half cup of salted quinoa and a little vinegar and soda yields a great batter for spooning onto the griddle.

Here a Chick, There a Chick—

Hens who get to peck around like on Old MacDonald’s Farm might be a minority at this point in history, but as Bob Dylan sang in his rusty 1960s voice, “the times, they are a-changin.” In response to pressure from the Humane Society of the United States, Ben and Jerry’s has pledged to stop using eggs from hens who live out miserable lives in batteries of cages stacked ten high in cavernous barns.

Such ideas are not new for Ben and Jerry’s. The company’s United Kingdom plant that produces ice cream for Europe has used cagefree eggs for years now. That’s because British consumers have a record dating back to 1876 of insisting farm animals be treated humanely even if they all aren’t out on Old MacDonald’s any more.

“This new ethic is conservative, not radical,” maintains Professor Bernard Rollan, who is widely recognized for pioneering the field of animal ethics and policy during the 1970s. “It is a return to the roughly fair contract those who have husbanded animals for virtually all of human history have had with animals. That of taking great pains to put one’s animals into the best possible environment one could find to meet their physical and psychological natures.”

So, how sunny are those eggs on the breakfast table? Or in the really cheap breakfast you found at your neighborhood restaurant? Yes indeed. Vast is the difference between the way animals are treated in family operations than on factory farms.

Picture mama pigs flat on their backs. Held down and immovable by straps across their bellies so that piglets can suckle. Arranged 6 at a time on slanted stainless steel machines that revolve slowly to allow for maximum feeding and ultimately, hog production.

That visual image is courtesy of Our Daily Bread, a European documentary that reveals disturbing images of factory farming. (It’s interesting to compare the access to industrialized farming that European filmmakers have to that available to their counterparts in the US. Case in point: In Food, Inc. filming crews simply were not permitted to capture images of much of what goes on. For another particularly compelling glimpse into factory farming, see We Feed the World, another European documentary.)

Then there are our dairy cows in conventional operations: bossies who spend their days standing trapped in barns, the full weight of their 1200-pound bulk planted  on unyielding cement floors.

And our lady hens–living out shadow existences, each bird in a space no larger than a laptop.  (The article I wrote for E Mag about hens is pasted at the end of this post.)

The good news, of course, is that we can vote against this abuse of innocent creatures with our food dollars. Yes, we’ll pay more, but also yes, perhaps we can eat a little less of these items and more highly affordable whole grains and legumes to offset the cost.

Then again, we can grow our own like so many in The Peoples Republic of Portland do (just saw this on a bumper sticker yesterday). In two weeks is the 6th annual Tour de Coops, presented by Growing Gardens, an organization that builds gardens for low income people and mentors them for their first several years of growing their own. Tour de Coops. Eldie and I have our $10 passes, complete with a map and bike routes.

Patrick who lives three doors down can’t join us, but here’s an email he sent on his new girly girls and divorcing his chem lawn company:

“I bought the two little chickies about two months ago, and they are now living outside in their little coop in the backyard.  So stay tuned for fresh eggs in the coming months.  I got hooked on the fresh eggs from the Farmer’s Market, but at $6/dozen I decided to try to get some chickens of my own! Hopefully in September we should have some eggs.  You’d be proud though — because these little girls eat everything in sight, our yard has become 100% ORGANIC … no icky fertilizers or plant foods … so, I guess there is hope for us after all??  ”

Or we could save up and slip into a time warp one of the most marvelous vacation spots I’ve heard of lately: Mar Vista in Mendocino County. Carola stayed there last March with her husband, Allen. ~~Thanks, Carola, for all your photos. They make this posting–and how great to have a husband that’s into cooking and cruising.

Picture sunny yellow cottages. Picture white cluck-cluck hens with bright red combs in their very own hutches and access to a sloping green hill where they hunt and peck.

****************

Jean’s E Mag article: Animal-Friendly Husbandry Displacing Industrialized Laying Hen Operations

Over easy and whisked into omelets, eggs delight many. But the hens that laid the eggs are another subject. Visit 95 percent of the egg operations in the United States today, and you’ll find as many as a quarter million hens crammed into batteries of cages stacked ten rows high—quarters so tight they cannot even flap their wings.

“The modern hen lays an egg on around 320 days each year, and during the two hours surrounding that process, she is severely frustrated,” Ian Duncan says, expert on laying hens and emeritus professor in the department of animal and poultry science at the University of Guelph, Canada, who holds a university chair in animal welfare. “That seems unacceptable to me.”

Duncan also notes that without perches, the chickens do not sleep well at night, and because they cannot get exercise, they develop weak bones akin to osteoporosis. That said at least with the growing minority of producers, “the trend seems to be getting the birds onto the floor of the barns and even outside,” Duncan observes.

“This new ethic is conservative, not radical,” says Bernard Rollin, PhD, faculty in the departments of philosophy, animal sciences, and biomedical sciences at Colorado State University. “It is a return to the roughly fair contract those who have husbanded animals for virtually all of human history have had with animals—that of taking great pains to put one’s animals into the best possible environment one could find to meet their physical and psychological natures.”

Rollin’s point is well taken. No less a mainstream organization than the Humane Society of the United States formally began a campaign to raise awareness about conditions related to confined farm animals in 2005. By the end of 2006, HSUS had drawn sufficient public attention to the wretched plight of laying hens to help change the egg-purchasing policies of several large companies including Ben and Jerry’s.

“We will be phasing over to the good eggs over the next four years,” says Sean Greenwood, spokesman for the ice cream company that markets itself as socially conscious. “We’re not chicken experts and learned about all this from the Humane Society. But we are a company that believes in being fair to animals.”

“We looked at major buyers and worked with them to stop buying the most abusive types of eggs that are available,” says Paul Shapiro, director of the Humane Society’s Factor Farm Campaign. “Ben and Jerry’s is a huge company, and they deserve credit for improving the welfare for hens who are laying eggs for their ice creams.”

But Shapiro cautions against assuming that all is well. “Consumers need to realize that cage free eggs don’t necessarily mean cruelty-free,” he adds. “That said hens free from the nightmare of battery cages are leading much better lives, so this is a serious improvement that ought to be applauded. There is significantly is less suffering involved.”

Hens living in cage free operations, as John Brunnquell, president of Egg Innovations notes, “are free to move around the barn, interact with peers, and enjoy natural sunlight,” but they do not get outside. That’s because we, the consumers, still have not indicated we will support full lives for the hens that give us our eggs.

“We want to expand significantly the number of people in this market so this is a way to produce affordable cage free eggs,” explains Brunnquell. “On the other hand, eggs that are labeled organic by definition must come from hens that are free roaming with access to the outside.”

“The organic shoppers have said they are willing to pay the price for the more expensive outside access, but the cage free shopper hasn’t. So we don’t want to lose those people by pricing product out of their range.”

Brunnquell grew up on a small family egg farm in Wisconsin that used cages, but after earning a masters degree in poultry science, he decided to move his operation to 100 percent cage free, complete with third party audits to ensure full compliance. “Back then, I could articulate all the arguments for cages, but at the end of the day when I walked into a poultry barn, I evolved a stronger feeling that cage free was a correct way to go.”

The third party audits Brunnquell uses from Humane Farm Animal Care are in lieu of formal federal or state regulation protecting animals in confined farming operations. According to Rollin, that’s because the agricultural industry has pressured for a laissez faire approach to regulation.

“These big companies are kingdoms unto themselves and aren’t used to the oversight that animal research enjoys in university settings,” Rollin says. “They account only to their stock holders, so many owners simply say they will just move to Asia if US regulators clamp down.”

The US bureaucracy might have lagged, but as Shapiro sees it consumers are coming around. “Since we started our campaign in 2005, we’ve praised a number of companies that now have switched over to cage free eggs: Ben and Jerry’s, AOL, Google, the Bon Appetit Management Company that services more than 70 universities, and, of course, natural food purveyors Wild Oats Natural Marketplace, and Whole Foods Market.”

To expand this net, Shapiro suggests people “use their power as consumers, ask grocery store managers to stop selling cage eggs all together, and talk with the directors of dinning halls at their companies, schools, and hospitals.”

Duncan agrees that consumers can change practices, but he thinks education is critical. “I think it’s got to be a labeling scheme with compulsory photographs showing quite clearly how the hens that produced the eggs are kept.”

Compulsory photographs on cartons of eggs? Consumers aware of how the animals who provide the product they purchase spend their lives? The concept might sound extreme, but surely the hens that are laying the eggs would flap their wings in approval—if only they could.

Cooking Beyond Measure is poised for its debut, so I’ve done the sensible thing and started the next cookbook: Hippie Kitchen. That’s why it was so perfect when I met Rosanna at a writer’s confab. Long hair properly grayed for her age and era, tied back stylishly. Birkenstocks. A simple white t-shirt and pair of Levis. Writing a book on honey bees. (Credentials? A doctorate in biology, don’t you know.) Yes. This was a person I wanted know better.

“Come over for dinner and share some pages?”

“Sure. Cool.”

I did a yeast dough and got some rolls to rising. There was plenty kale in the garden for a warm salad, and I brined some shrimp for the grill. But nary an olive in the house for starters. Then in walked Rosanna with the bounty pictured above.

“Do you have hens?” I said, fingering the eggs that she’d boiled and admiring her first rate garden produce.

“No but my friend, Helga, out in Oregon City sells them for one of her friends She’s actually responsible for some of the snow peas, too.”

We sliced the eggs in half so their bold yellow yolks showed prettily against coarse salt, pepper, and paprika. Then we chunked up the radishes and put a handful of peapods on the plate.

Out to the deck. We had starters from a hippie garden and a hippie kitchen. We shared pages. We got acquainted. It was cool.

Here’s help for those wanting to make sense of the egg scene. The store bought scene boils down to 3 divisions, along with the caveat that if you really want to ensure your hens are well cared for, buy local from small growers.

1. Cheap Eggs=Hens who live out stark lives crammed into cages together, each with space the size of a laptop and no room to flap their wings–a behavior that’s instinctual with egg laying.

2. Cagefree Eggs=The hens are freed from their cages, but only into the cavernous barn that holds hundreds upon thousands of hens that must be going nigh unto out of their minds.

3. Organic Eggs=By definition organic eggs must come from hens that get outside the barn. This is a spendy proposition for egg growers and why these eggs are several times the cost of the cheapies. That said, according to regulation these hens can still be subjected to practices the United States Humane Society finds intolerable: forced starvation and beak trimming.

My take on eggs: buy from a local grower–trade with your neighbor–or get a couple hens for your own yard.