Big Cooking Never Hurt Anyone–Or Did It?
17 November 2009 by Jean JohnsonCAFOs (confined animal feeding operations) and Big Food break my heart. That’s why cheap breakfasts don’t impress me. The hens and pigs pay so very pitifully for our pleasure. Factory farmers prostituting themselves under the guise of feeding the world–never mind the big bucks.
Given all that, why does this blog languish in the backwater of everyday cooking, making a big deal out of the measure free kitchen? A cutesy ploy? Not for this historian who’s thought some about Americans only getting measuring cups 100 years ago.
Here I am (front right) in Puebla, Mexico a few years back with on food writing assignment for the Smithsonian’s American Indian Magazine. What I saw in Puebla was the same thing I witnessed in Indian Country when I lived a decade with the Hopi and Navajo. Great food. Pride and creativity. Appreciation of sustainably sourced produce on which a community can depend. It’s all interwoven.
That’s the point, then. If we cooked more we’d care more. And we’d cook more if it was easy and fun–not some dutiful direction-following exercise.
Big Cooking really kicked in with Fannie Farmer. Fine and good–some might argue– for late-19th century Boston elites who wanted their help to follow orders from headquarters. But what about us? Do we really need to be told what to do in our kitchens? Other everyday cooks around the world don’t–southern France’s Provence and Asia included.
Unconvinced? How about this: Ethnic cookbooks superimpose measurements and prescriptive steps for our western taste–or lack of it. In effect, we get the blue print but not the heart and soul.
Like so many in the food biz, including the New York Time’s Mark Bittman, are confiding: everyday cooking just ain’t all it’s trumped up to be. No fine knife skills or knives required. No need to create a mini-masterpiece. Just going for it like women around the globe have for centuries. Using what’s in the cupboard to make good, healthy, affordable eats.
So Big Cooking? Buzz off:) Some of us are finally getting wise out here!
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